Toy Australian Shepherd Association of America
Breed Standard with Interpretation
Published by the Toy Australian Shepherd Association of America
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Toy Australian Shepherd is a well-balanced herding dog of small to medium size. Bone is also moderate and in proportion to body size. He is attentive and animated, showing strength and stamina combined with unusually agility. Slightly long than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex, masculinity or femininity is well-defined.
Proposed Changes to the Breed Standard
(as approved by Board of Directors and Officers 2/17/09):
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The first visual image should be that of an Australian Shepherd, no other breed should come to mind. The breed name "Toy Australian Shepherd" refers solely to the dogs diminutive (or smaller) size, and in no way implies "toyish" features. The Toy Australian Shepherd is a small to medium sturdy little herding dog that could do a days work and must not appear weak, spindly or coarse. Bone and muscle must be in proportion to, and an enhancement of, the dogs weight and structure. His body is to be slightly longer than tall (ratio 10:9). His coat is of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality. An identifying characteristic is his bobtail natural or docked. The males should look masculine and the female should appear feminine. He is a loyal, attentive, and animated little dog, showing strength and stamina, combined with unusual agility.
Interpretation: The dog should be viewed as a whole. The first visual image portrays that of the Standard Australian Shepherd, thus defining TYPE. When the type is established the correct bone and structure and head become integral parts of the whole picture. A dog with excellent structure, but lacking a correct headpiece is just as lacking in type as one that has excellent head but has faulty structure. Although no dog is perfect, the nearer to perfection according to the breed standard, the better the dog. No other breed should come mind when the whole picture is presented as stated in the Breed Standard.
CHARACTER
The Toy Australian Shepherd is intelligent. It is primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an exceptional companion. He is versatile and easlity trained, performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers, but does not exhibit shyness. Although an aggressive, authorative worker, viciousness towards people or animals is intolerable.
Disqualification: VICIOUSNESS
Fault: UNDUE SHYNESS
Interpretation: The Toy Australian Shepherd's presence should be that of a cheerful intelligent dog, loyal and attentive to its handler, showing willingness to please. Although they are naturally cautious of strangers, they should NOT be faulted for this. Any sign of viciousness should be HEAVILY penalized. Extreme shyness should also be considered a fault.
SIZE
The height for dogs and bitches is 10 inches up to 14 inches at the top of withers. Dogs or bitches that are 14 inches or over will be shown as a Miniature Australian Shepherd, not as a Toy Australian Shepherd. Quality should not be sacrificed in favor of size within the guidelines of this breed standard.
Interpretation: Guidelines of the breed size are clearly stated. The size variation between males and females shall not be considered as long as they are within the guidelines. The type, over-all balance, and correctness are to outweigh the height differences presented within the breed.
HEAD
The head should be clean-cut, strong, dry, and in proportion to the body. The top skull is flat to slightly rounded, its length and width each equal to the length of the muzzle, which is in balance and proportioned to the rest of the head. The muzzle tapers slightly to a rounded tip. The stop is moderate, but well-defined.
Severe Faults - Domed Skull;
Faults - lacking bottom jaw, when viewed from the side
Interpretation: The skull's structure provides for the muscular attachments for the head. The head should appear to be as wide as long. A slight, but defined, stop is called for so that a blow from a hoof will glance off the head. A steep stop and protruding eyes could lead to grave injury or death. A strong, deep muzzle of medium length, together with a good under jaw, is needed to carry out the job of moving livestock. The foreface should be well filled out under the eyes and there should be gradual taper to the nose. The lip should be tight, as any looseness could cause the dog to bite its own lip when nipping livestock. As a good rule, you should be able to see the under jaw clearly when viewing from the side. The headpiece of the dog shall look more masculine than that of a bitch. The head and its exacting parts make up the overall appearance. The incorrect proportion of any one of these may destroy the overall proportion. It is paramount to have a correct head type for the dog.
Breed Standard with Interpretation
Published by the Toy Australian Shepherd Association of America
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Toy Australian Shepherd is a well-balanced herding dog of small to medium size. Bone is also moderate and in proportion to body size. He is attentive and animated, showing strength and stamina combined with unusually agility. Slightly long than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex, masculinity or femininity is well-defined.
Proposed Changes to the Breed Standard
(as approved by Board of Directors and Officers 2/17/09):
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The first visual image should be that of an Australian Shepherd, no other breed should come to mind. The breed name "Toy Australian Shepherd" refers solely to the dogs diminutive (or smaller) size, and in no way implies "toyish" features. The Toy Australian Shepherd is a small to medium sturdy little herding dog that could do a days work and must not appear weak, spindly or coarse. Bone and muscle must be in proportion to, and an enhancement of, the dogs weight and structure. His body is to be slightly longer than tall (ratio 10:9). His coat is of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality. An identifying characteristic is his bobtail natural or docked. The males should look masculine and the female should appear feminine. He is a loyal, attentive, and animated little dog, showing strength and stamina, combined with unusual agility.
Interpretation: The dog should be viewed as a whole. The first visual image portrays that of the Standard Australian Shepherd, thus defining TYPE. When the type is established the correct bone and structure and head become integral parts of the whole picture. A dog with excellent structure, but lacking a correct headpiece is just as lacking in type as one that has excellent head but has faulty structure. Although no dog is perfect, the nearer to perfection according to the breed standard, the better the dog. No other breed should come mind when the whole picture is presented as stated in the Breed Standard.
CHARACTER
The Toy Australian Shepherd is intelligent. It is primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an exceptional companion. He is versatile and easlity trained, performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers, but does not exhibit shyness. Although an aggressive, authorative worker, viciousness towards people or animals is intolerable.
Disqualification: VICIOUSNESS
Fault: UNDUE SHYNESS
Interpretation: The Toy Australian Shepherd's presence should be that of a cheerful intelligent dog, loyal and attentive to its handler, showing willingness to please. Although they are naturally cautious of strangers, they should NOT be faulted for this. Any sign of viciousness should be HEAVILY penalized. Extreme shyness should also be considered a fault.
SIZE
The height for dogs and bitches is 10 inches up to 14 inches at the top of withers. Dogs or bitches that are 14 inches or over will be shown as a Miniature Australian Shepherd, not as a Toy Australian Shepherd. Quality should not be sacrificed in favor of size within the guidelines of this breed standard.
Interpretation: Guidelines of the breed size are clearly stated. The size variation between males and females shall not be considered as long as they are within the guidelines. The type, over-all balance, and correctness are to outweigh the height differences presented within the breed.
HEAD
The head should be clean-cut, strong, dry, and in proportion to the body. The top skull is flat to slightly rounded, its length and width each equal to the length of the muzzle, which is in balance and proportioned to the rest of the head. The muzzle tapers slightly to a rounded tip. The stop is moderate, but well-defined.
Severe Faults - Domed Skull;
Faults - lacking bottom jaw, when viewed from the side
Interpretation: The skull's structure provides for the muscular attachments for the head. The head should appear to be as wide as long. A slight, but defined, stop is called for so that a blow from a hoof will glance off the head. A steep stop and protruding eyes could lead to grave injury or death. A strong, deep muzzle of medium length, together with a good under jaw, is needed to carry out the job of moving livestock. The foreface should be well filled out under the eyes and there should be gradual taper to the nose. The lip should be tight, as any looseness could cause the dog to bite its own lip when nipping livestock. As a good rule, you should be able to see the under jaw clearly when viewing from the side. The headpiece of the dog shall look more masculine than that of a bitch. The head and its exacting parts make up the overall appearance. The incorrect proportion of any one of these may destroy the overall proportion. It is paramount to have a correct head type for the dog.
EYES
The dog's eyes should be very expressive, showing attentiveness and intelligence. Clear, almond-shaped, and of moderate size, set a little obliquely, neither prominent nor sunken, with dark pupils, well defined and perfectly positioned. Color is brown, blue, amber or any variation or combination thereof, including flecks and marbling.
Interpretation: The eyes should be of oval shape and of moderate size; color of the eyes may vary, and may even have two eyes of different color. Prominent eyes are generally found in dogs with a muzzle which is too short. Prominent eyes make the dog vulnerable to injury from brush and kicks. A suspicious look is normal as these dogs are naturally cautious of strangers. When looking at the dog's eyes, use soft eyes yourself, which is less threatening.
EARS
The ears are set high at the side of the head. They are triangular and slightly rounded at the tip, of moderate size with length measured by bringing the tip of the ear around to the inside corner of the eye. When alert, the ear should tip forward at the base and fold one half to one quarter. The ear may be carried back against the head when traveling (rose ear). The ear should depict attentive expression.
Severe Faults: PRICK OR HOUND EARS
Interpretation: The ears should be of moderate size, better small than large and hound-like. The ear should be broad at the base and taper toward a rounded tip, forming the shape of a triangle. When alert, the ear should tip forward at the base and fold one half to one quarter. The ear may be carried back against the head when traveling (rose ear). Prick ear or hound ear shall be severely faulted.
TEETH
A full complement of strong, white teeth should meet in a scissors bite. An even bite is not a fault. Teeth broken or missing by accident shall not be penalized.
Disqualifications - Undershot bite or overshot jaw greater than 1/16 inch.
Interpretation: The mouth should consist of a full complement of strong, healthy teeth, as the dog is of herding origin; the teeth are used for nipping animals that are difficult to move
NECK AND BODY
The neck is firm, clean and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The top line appears level at a natural fore-square stance. The chest is deep and strong with ribs well sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. The bottom line carries well back with a moderate tuck-up. The croup is moderately sloping, the ideal being thirty (30) degrees from the horizontal. The tail is straight, not to exceed two (2) inches, natural bobtail or docked.
Interpretation: The neck should be strong and of moderate length with a slight crest at the base of the skull. The neck should blend smoothly into the body. A short neck will cause an inefficient short stride that lacks smoothness. A working dog needs to be quick and agile around livestock. The topline should be level when stacked square. The chest should let down to the elbow and should be of moderate width. The ribs should be neither slab sided or barrel ribbed, but should be slightly sprung to hold a nice set of lungs. The under-line of the dog should carry well back with a slight tuck up. The loin should be of moderate length since a long loin could restrict the turning ability of the dog. A sloping topline is usually associated with a faulty rear assembly or incorrect front angles. The body of the dog should have the appearance of a sturdy littly dog that could do a day's work.
FOREQUARTERS
The shoulder blades (scapula) are long and flat, close set at the withers, approximately one, to one and one half fingers in width, in accordance with the size of the dog, at a natural stance, and are well laid back at an angle approximately forty-five (45) degrees to the ground. The upper arm (humerus) is attached at an approximate right angle to the shoulder line with forelegs dropping straight, perpendicular to the ground. The elbow joint is equal distance from the ground to the withers. The legs are straight and powerful. Pasterns are short, thick, and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws may be removed.
Interpretation: The front quarters should appear strong and sturdy from any angle. There should be a prominent prosternum showing some fullness of the chest in front of the point of the shoulder blade. The scapula should be at a 45-degree angle and attach smoothly to the muscles of the body. The dog should be longer than tall by a ten to nine ratio (10:9) when measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of the butt. The upper arm should not be too closely set at the point of the withers, nor should it be wide and loose. The forelegs should hang straight down and should be perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side. The distance from the withers to the point of the elbow should be equal to the distance from the point of the elbow to the ground. The pasterns should be short and show some flexing when viewed from the side. A short, straight pastern will result in damaged joints and feet. A weak, over-flexed pastern shows weakness, which may cause ligament damage in the future and may not hold up under hard use. The feet should have thick pads and should be tight and well-knuckled. Although these dogs are of working origin and front quarters are well muscled, at no time should the dog have the appearance of loaded shoulders, as heavy fronts will hamper movement and limit working ability.
The dog's eyes should be very expressive, showing attentiveness and intelligence. Clear, almond-shaped, and of moderate size, set a little obliquely, neither prominent nor sunken, with dark pupils, well defined and perfectly positioned. Color is brown, blue, amber or any variation or combination thereof, including flecks and marbling.
Interpretation: The eyes should be of oval shape and of moderate size; color of the eyes may vary, and may even have two eyes of different color. Prominent eyes are generally found in dogs with a muzzle which is too short. Prominent eyes make the dog vulnerable to injury from brush and kicks. A suspicious look is normal as these dogs are naturally cautious of strangers. When looking at the dog's eyes, use soft eyes yourself, which is less threatening.
EARS
The ears are set high at the side of the head. They are triangular and slightly rounded at the tip, of moderate size with length measured by bringing the tip of the ear around to the inside corner of the eye. When alert, the ear should tip forward at the base and fold one half to one quarter. The ear may be carried back against the head when traveling (rose ear). The ear should depict attentive expression.
Severe Faults: PRICK OR HOUND EARS
Interpretation: The ears should be of moderate size, better small than large and hound-like. The ear should be broad at the base and taper toward a rounded tip, forming the shape of a triangle. When alert, the ear should tip forward at the base and fold one half to one quarter. The ear may be carried back against the head when traveling (rose ear). Prick ear or hound ear shall be severely faulted.
TEETH
A full complement of strong, white teeth should meet in a scissors bite. An even bite is not a fault. Teeth broken or missing by accident shall not be penalized.
Disqualifications - Undershot bite or overshot jaw greater than 1/16 inch.
Interpretation: The mouth should consist of a full complement of strong, healthy teeth, as the dog is of herding origin; the teeth are used for nipping animals that are difficult to move
NECK AND BODY
The neck is firm, clean and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The top line appears level at a natural fore-square stance. The chest is deep and strong with ribs well sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. The bottom line carries well back with a moderate tuck-up. The croup is moderately sloping, the ideal being thirty (30) degrees from the horizontal. The tail is straight, not to exceed two (2) inches, natural bobtail or docked.
Interpretation: The neck should be strong and of moderate length with a slight crest at the base of the skull. The neck should blend smoothly into the body. A short neck will cause an inefficient short stride that lacks smoothness. A working dog needs to be quick and agile around livestock. The topline should be level when stacked square. The chest should let down to the elbow and should be of moderate width. The ribs should be neither slab sided or barrel ribbed, but should be slightly sprung to hold a nice set of lungs. The under-line of the dog should carry well back with a slight tuck up. The loin should be of moderate length since a long loin could restrict the turning ability of the dog. A sloping topline is usually associated with a faulty rear assembly or incorrect front angles. The body of the dog should have the appearance of a sturdy littly dog that could do a day's work.
FOREQUARTERS
The shoulder blades (scapula) are long and flat, close set at the withers, approximately one, to one and one half fingers in width, in accordance with the size of the dog, at a natural stance, and are well laid back at an angle approximately forty-five (45) degrees to the ground. The upper arm (humerus) is attached at an approximate right angle to the shoulder line with forelegs dropping straight, perpendicular to the ground. The elbow joint is equal distance from the ground to the withers. The legs are straight and powerful. Pasterns are short, thick, and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws may be removed.
Interpretation: The front quarters should appear strong and sturdy from any angle. There should be a prominent prosternum showing some fullness of the chest in front of the point of the shoulder blade. The scapula should be at a 45-degree angle and attach smoothly to the muscles of the body. The dog should be longer than tall by a ten to nine ratio (10:9) when measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of the butt. The upper arm should not be too closely set at the point of the withers, nor should it be wide and loose. The forelegs should hang straight down and should be perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side. The distance from the withers to the point of the elbow should be equal to the distance from the point of the elbow to the ground. The pasterns should be short and show some flexing when viewed from the side. A short, straight pastern will result in damaged joints and feet. A weak, over-flexed pastern shows weakness, which may cause ligament damage in the future and may not hold up under hard use. The feet should have thick pads and should be tight and well-knuckled. Although these dogs are of working origin and front quarters are well muscled, at no time should the dog have the appearance of loaded shoulders, as heavy fronts will hamper movement and limit working ability.
HINDQUARTERS
The width of the hindquarters should be approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulders. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) corrresponds to the angulations of the shoulder blade and forming an approximate right angle to the upper arm. Stifles are clearly defined, hock joints moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are this and resilient; nails short and strong. Rear dewclaws are removed
Fault
- Straight in the stifle.
- Long toes or open feet.
- Cow hocks, straight hocks, sickle hocks, or lack of muscling.
- Standing wide.
Interpretation: The hindquarters are the dogs driving force. The rear assembly should be well muscled with angulations matching the front quarters. A weak rear that is thin and poorly angulated will cause the dog to lack the ability to move quickly and with power. Stifles that are over angulated like a German Shepherd or are too straight will lack stability and strength. The hocks should be set close to the ground and the metatarsus should be vertical when viewed from all angles when the dog is stacked and square. The feet should be round and the toes should be tight and well-knuckled. The pads should be deep and hard. Any dog with poor feet could not be expected to hold up under a day's work.
COAT
The coat should be of medium texture, straight to slightly wavy, weather resistant, of moderate length with an undercoat. The quality of undercoat varies with climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs and below the hocks. Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered; britches are moderately full. There is a moderate mane and frill, more pronounced in dogs than bitches.
Severe Fault: Non-typical coats
Interpretation: Australian Shepherds of all sizes are all-weather workers and the coat should reflect that aspect of the breed. Coats that would impede their usefulnes as a working dog should be severely faulted. Coats that are too soft and long would pick up burrs and hold mud, causing them to become matted, incomfortable, and restrictive. The coat of the Australian Shepherd is to be one that is moderate in length and has a texture that would easily shed burrs, grass seed, and dirt. The outer coat should be coarser and the downy under coat should be soft and of fine texture (hence the expression "double coat"). The double coat helps protect the dog's skin from the elements. Any coat that is wiry, excessively curly, or long and flowing like an Afghan should be penalized for having a non-typical coat. Dogs lacking a double coat are just as incorrect as excessive coats, but would probably be more suited for work than one with a long, flowing coat. The males may have a more pronounced ruff and the females may have shorter, less dense coats.
COLORS
All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black and solid red (liver), all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eyerims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eyerims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under the age of one year. On all colors, the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the pint at the withers.
Disqualifications:
Other than recognized colors (pattern whites, yellows, and sables);
white body splashes;
white spots on the back, on the sides above the elbow and behind the point of the withers.
Dudley nose.
Interpretation: Many variations of color are acceptable. Merles of both colors (red and blue) are considered correct with or without white markings and/or tan points. Any merling on the body, not matter how small, will cause its coloring to be classified as a merle. Tri's can be either black or red; many red tri's fade easily when in sunny climates and may be any shade of the red family from deep mohagony to light pale faded red. They are considered tri's when the coat exhibits the three colors. The tri minus the tan points above the eyes and on the legs is called a bi (either red or black). Merles that are lacking the tan points are called self-merles. They may have white markings or they may be lacking both tan and white markings. Solid reds and blacks exhibit no white or tan points on the body. The white pattern that is present in the breed is referred to as an Irish pattern. None of these various combinations are preferred over another. The white pattern ruff shall NOT exceed the point of the withers. You may have to look closely at the base of the coat to determine if the color has exceeded its limit. White further up the side than one inch above the elbow is considered to be excessive. WHITE SPLASHES ON THE BODY ARE CONSIDERED A DISQUALIFICATION. White around the eyes and ears is considered a disqualification since hearing and sight can be affected. The pigment of the nose and eye rims is to be black on black tri's, blue merles, and black bi's. The pigment is liver on the eye rims and nose of the red merle, red tri and red bi. A Dudley nose is one lacking in pigment and any adult dog should not have a pink spot greater than one quarter of the entire surface. These types of nosees are very sensitive to sunburn and skin cancer. Although some coat colors are more appealing than others, the color of the coat is less significant than the type, structure, and movement of the dog.
The width of the hindquarters should be approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulders. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) corrresponds to the angulations of the shoulder blade and forming an approximate right angle to the upper arm. Stifles are clearly defined, hock joints moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are this and resilient; nails short and strong. Rear dewclaws are removed
Fault
- Straight in the stifle.
- Long toes or open feet.
- Cow hocks, straight hocks, sickle hocks, or lack of muscling.
- Standing wide.
Interpretation: The hindquarters are the dogs driving force. The rear assembly should be well muscled with angulations matching the front quarters. A weak rear that is thin and poorly angulated will cause the dog to lack the ability to move quickly and with power. Stifles that are over angulated like a German Shepherd or are too straight will lack stability and strength. The hocks should be set close to the ground and the metatarsus should be vertical when viewed from all angles when the dog is stacked and square. The feet should be round and the toes should be tight and well-knuckled. The pads should be deep and hard. Any dog with poor feet could not be expected to hold up under a day's work.
COAT
The coat should be of medium texture, straight to slightly wavy, weather resistant, of moderate length with an undercoat. The quality of undercoat varies with climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs and below the hocks. Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered; britches are moderately full. There is a moderate mane and frill, more pronounced in dogs than bitches.
Severe Fault: Non-typical coats
Interpretation: Australian Shepherds of all sizes are all-weather workers and the coat should reflect that aspect of the breed. Coats that would impede their usefulnes as a working dog should be severely faulted. Coats that are too soft and long would pick up burrs and hold mud, causing them to become matted, incomfortable, and restrictive. The coat of the Australian Shepherd is to be one that is moderate in length and has a texture that would easily shed burrs, grass seed, and dirt. The outer coat should be coarser and the downy under coat should be soft and of fine texture (hence the expression "double coat"). The double coat helps protect the dog's skin from the elements. Any coat that is wiry, excessively curly, or long and flowing like an Afghan should be penalized for having a non-typical coat. Dogs lacking a double coat are just as incorrect as excessive coats, but would probably be more suited for work than one with a long, flowing coat. The males may have a more pronounced ruff and the females may have shorter, less dense coats.
COLORS
All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black and solid red (liver), all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eyerims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eyerims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under the age of one year. On all colors, the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the pint at the withers.
Disqualifications:
Other than recognized colors (pattern whites, yellows, and sables);
white body splashes;
white spots on the back, on the sides above the elbow and behind the point of the withers.
Dudley nose.
Interpretation: Many variations of color are acceptable. Merles of both colors (red and blue) are considered correct with or without white markings and/or tan points. Any merling on the body, not matter how small, will cause its coloring to be classified as a merle. Tri's can be either black or red; many red tri's fade easily when in sunny climates and may be any shade of the red family from deep mohagony to light pale faded red. They are considered tri's when the coat exhibits the three colors. The tri minus the tan points above the eyes and on the legs is called a bi (either red or black). Merles that are lacking the tan points are called self-merles. They may have white markings or they may be lacking both tan and white markings. Solid reds and blacks exhibit no white or tan points on the body. The white pattern that is present in the breed is referred to as an Irish pattern. None of these various combinations are preferred over another. The white pattern ruff shall NOT exceed the point of the withers. You may have to look closely at the base of the coat to determine if the color has exceeded its limit. White further up the side than one inch above the elbow is considered to be excessive. WHITE SPLASHES ON THE BODY ARE CONSIDERED A DISQUALIFICATION. White around the eyes and ears is considered a disqualification since hearing and sight can be affected. The pigment of the nose and eye rims is to be black on black tri's, blue merles, and black bi's. The pigment is liver on the eye rims and nose of the red merle, red tri and red bi. A Dudley nose is one lacking in pigment and any adult dog should not have a pink spot greater than one quarter of the entire surface. These types of nosees are very sensitive to sunburn and skin cancer. Although some coat colors are more appealing than others, the color of the coat is less significant than the type, structure, and movement of the dog.
GAIT
Smooth, free and easy; exhibiting agility of movement with well-balanced, ground-covering stride. Fore and hind legs move straight and parallel with the center line of the body. As speed increases the feet, both front and rear, converge toward the center line of the dog, while the top line remains firm and level.
Faults:
Side movement faults--over reaching, back kick out, hackney, pacing, moving downhill (high in rear), flying trot;
Coming and going faults--crabbing or sidewinding, crossing over the centerline, front body swivel and shouder roll, rear end swivel and body rolling.
Interpretation: It should be noted first and foremost that the gait is but a measure of soundness and may reveal faults that are not apparent when the dog is being posed. Although the Toy Australian Shepherd is of small stature, its structure and movement should mirror that of the standard Australian Shepherd. It should be noted that as a working dog, when traveling at a trot, the head of the Aussie should be carried in a natural position level with its topline.
SUMMARY OF DISQUALIFICATIONS:
Monorchidism/Cryptorchidism
Other than recognized coat colors (pattern whites, yellows, and sables)
White body splashes (white spots on the back, on the sides above the elbow and behind the point of the withers
Undershot bites Overshot bites (exceeding 1/16th inch)
Viciousness: aggression toward people or other animals Under ten inches.
SEVERE FAULTS
Unsoundness
Undue Shyness
Domed skull; Bulging eyes; Fine boned.
Non-typical coat texture and amount
Prick ears
Hound ears.
Pacing / Crabbing. Rolling across shoulders, back or hips.
FAULTS
Shallowness of the body, ranginess, lightness of bone, poor overall proportion.
Roach back, soft top line.
Cow hocks /sickle hocks.
Straight shoulders.
Lack of angulations.
Stilted gait.
Hackney gait.
Splay footedness / long toes.
Barrel hock.
Lack of pigment around the eye rim.
Weak pasterns.
Chest disproportionately wide or narrow / lacking depth.
Gaily carried tail or tail exceeding 2 inches in length.
Lacking bottom jaw.
Smooth, free and easy; exhibiting agility of movement with well-balanced, ground-covering stride. Fore and hind legs move straight and parallel with the center line of the body. As speed increases the feet, both front and rear, converge toward the center line of the dog, while the top line remains firm and level.
Faults:
Side movement faults--over reaching, back kick out, hackney, pacing, moving downhill (high in rear), flying trot;
Coming and going faults--crabbing or sidewinding, crossing over the centerline, front body swivel and shouder roll, rear end swivel and body rolling.
Interpretation: It should be noted first and foremost that the gait is but a measure of soundness and may reveal faults that are not apparent when the dog is being posed. Although the Toy Australian Shepherd is of small stature, its structure and movement should mirror that of the standard Australian Shepherd. It should be noted that as a working dog, when traveling at a trot, the head of the Aussie should be carried in a natural position level with its topline.
SUMMARY OF DISQUALIFICATIONS:
Monorchidism/Cryptorchidism
Other than recognized coat colors (pattern whites, yellows, and sables)
White body splashes (white spots on the back, on the sides above the elbow and behind the point of the withers
Undershot bites Overshot bites (exceeding 1/16th inch)
Viciousness: aggression toward people or other animals Under ten inches.
SEVERE FAULTS
Unsoundness
Undue Shyness
Domed skull; Bulging eyes; Fine boned.
Non-typical coat texture and amount
Prick ears
Hound ears.
Pacing / Crabbing. Rolling across shoulders, back or hips.
FAULTS
Shallowness of the body, ranginess, lightness of bone, poor overall proportion.
Roach back, soft top line.
Cow hocks /sickle hocks.
Straight shoulders.
Lack of angulations.
Stilted gait.
Hackney gait.
Splay footedness / long toes.
Barrel hock.
Lack of pigment around the eye rim.
Weak pasterns.
Chest disproportionately wide or narrow / lacking depth.
Gaily carried tail or tail exceeding 2 inches in length.
Lacking bottom jaw.